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Graffito in Köstendil

On the Trail of Evliya Çelebi’s Inscriptions and Graffitti

I first met Gianclaudio in 2009 in a Symposium about Bektashism in Albania in Tirana (fig. 1). He presented there his findings of the Survey in Delvina, with a focus on the graffiti in the portico of Gjin Aleksi Mosque. On that oc- casion we spoke about the findings and I speculated that this graffiti could inspect the graffiti. In December 2010 we made a research-journey to South Albania during which we stopped in Tepelene and Gjirokastro and collected material about Ottoman inscriptions for a publication. We could not proof that the graffiti in Delvina were from Evliya’s hand. One of the reasons is the fact that the graffiti in Delvina where too much damaged and too frag- mentary (Macchiarella, Tütüncü 2012). However, this was the beginning of a relatively short but fruitful cooperation. We presented our researches in Delvina in one symposium in Eskisehir (Macchiarella, Tütüncü 2012) and he later invited me at the Ca’ Foscari Congress of Balkans Studies Venezia e i Balcani, he organized in 2014. In addition, he invited me for dinner at his home, which was served with his own cooked dishes…

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